The Generalife was the Muslim rulers’ summer palace. Right in front of the palace is Patio de la Acequia, with fountains that echo the arched porticos at the back. To get there, I walked through a beautiful, fragrant garden. As I left, I walked up a staircase where water ran down where the handrails would be. The thing that boggles me is that all of the fountains, waterways, and intricate architecture was built around a thousand years ago, and it all still works.