from a sorta kinda local ;-) my friends wouldn't call me that, but I did spend my formative years in Seattle, and I spent a good part of my teenagerness in downtown thanks to friends who lived somewhere other than the suburban eastside.
I wrote this in response to a friend who is visiting Seattle. She's coming in via train. It's behind the cut b/c it's sort of long, and it doesn't apply really to those not visiting Seattle. Also, if you've got ideas of great places to go, please leave a comment and let me (and subsequently my friend) know. Her partner likes coffee, so any suggestions regarding that would be great since I know nothing.
Caveat: the following is a list of things I know about and stuff I do. It is by no means a comprehensive guide, and I'm sticking to downtown and Broadway, since they're both easily accesible by public transit. I'm trying to stay away from commercial things like Westlake Mall. I know UW is cool, and I'll write a guide to that at some point.
The train comes into Seattle just north of the football and baseball fields. To catch public transit, go up to Pioneer Square, which is a couple of blocks north and west of the train station. There is a great book store right near Pioneer Square called Elliot Bay Books. It's just south of Pioneer Square. From the train station (King Street), walk west until you hit 1st Avenue. Then, turn right and walk north a few blocks. Elliot Bay books will be on your right. From there, keep walking north on 1st Avenue to hit Pioneer Square. Plenty of busses go by there that will take you around.
Also in Pioneer Square is the Seattle Underground Tour. Seattle used to be one story lower, but we leveled a hill and filled in downtown. During the tour, you basically go thru the lowest level of Seattle. Fun if you like history.
Other cool places to hit:
Seattle Public Library is on Madison and 4th. It's been newly redesigned by a Dutch architect, Rem Kolhaas, and it's supposedly really innovative. I still haven't been.
Pike Place Market (2nd and Pike) -- actually a really cool place, and there's a comic book store in the "basement" and also a neat magic store. if you go to pike place, by the flying fish underneath the big "public market" sign, there's a staircase. go down one level, then turn right, and follow those stairs down. you should see the magic shop, and the comic book shop is tucked away to the left and a little back. It's easy to miss, but just ask someone and they'll point it out for you.
Pike Place is also a good spot to hit for cheap food. There's a Greek place and a Vietnameseish place outside on Pike Place (runs perpendicular to Pike Street -- street that runs into market -- and runs parallel to the market). There's an organic and vegan bakery that sells GREAT cookies. There's a gourmet cheese place. There's also sorts of delicious stuff. So, don't limit yourself to the market -- cross the street. The Three Sisters Russian Bakery and Shy Giant Frozen Treats are also wonderful.
In Post Alley, which is immediately south of the market and down below it sort of, there's an improv theatre club called Unexpected Productions. It's hilarious and highly recommended if you like comedy.
here's a good navigation tip for downtown Seattle:
Jesus Christ Made Seattle Under Protest
Jefferson
James
Cherry
Columbia
Marion
Madison
Spring
Seneca
University
Union
Pike
Pine
just remember the phrase and that there are two of each. Jefferson is furthest south and Pine is furthest north.
The Seattle Art Museum is downtown near Pike Place, and it's fairly good, but there's not a ton of modern stuff (not sure what kind of art you like). There's also an Asian Art Museum up on Broadway. If you're going to be there for a coupla days, Broadway is a funky area that's fun to hit. If both of you are meat eaters, the local burger joint is called Dick's Drivein, and there's one on Olive & Broadway (Olive is one block north of Pine). There's also a really good burrito restaurant on Pine Street and just south of Broadway called Bimbo's Bitchin' Burrito Kitchen. Good eats, vegetarian and meat available, and I adore it.
Apparently, on Broadway, there's a to-die-for coffee place called Vivace's. I know nothing more about it (not even where it is exactly), but I've heard about it from coffee-loving friends.
In Seattle, read The Stranger. It's the local independent paper. You can't go wrong with it.