as published in the Pacific Index, our school newspaper
On SW 2nd Avenue in Portland, just two blocks from the waterfront, resides one of the hippest Irish restaurants in all of the United States. Kells took third place in the 2004 list of America’s Top Ten Irish Establishments, and it’s easy to see why. The lights are dimmed nightly at 6.30 for ambiance, and the Irish bands start up around 8 on weekends. On the weekend, this restaurant is not for those seeking a quiet dinner experience. Rather, it’s perfect for both dates and groups who are looking for traditional Irish fare followed up with a pint of Guinness or a sipping shot of Jameson.
My favorite meal at Kells is the Guinness Shepard’s Pie, which combines ground chuck roast, carrots, peas, and onions in a cheddar and potato topped bowl of excellence. The filling is cooked in Guinness and cabernet, and the flavors are so delectable that I didn’t even notice the peas until I happened to see one on my fork. Any dish that can make a pea hater not notice that dreaded vegetable gets four stars in my book.
Another delightful menu item is the crab cake appetizer. It normally sells for $10, although availability or evening specials may lower the price of this or any of the appetizers. Again, the crab cakes were a mouth watering delight. I’m not sure how authentically Irish crab cakes are, but they make a wonderful start to any meal.
Sadly, the fish & chips I ordered at my last meal were sub-par. The fish was heavily fried, and the oil overwhelmed the flavor of the fish. As a caveat, I don’t eat a lot of fried food, and I think a whole plate of crispiness was overwhelming for me. I did enjoy the texture of the fish, and my date devoured my leftovers, so it would be safe to say that a fan of fish & chips would probably enjoy this dish.
For those seeking to watch their budget when eating out, I’d recommend only ordering off the traditional favorites section of the menu. The favorites run in price from $8-$10, and the choices run the gamut from corned beef and cabbage to Dublin chicken curry and chips. The traditional favorites also seem more authentically Irish, whereas the entrée options ($12-$19) are the more standard steak or seafood options that you could probably order almost anywhere.
On the weekends, Kells is a happening place to be for those students over 21. After 8 pm, Kells is closed to minors, and an Irish band takes the stage. Amadan, which has played to rave reviews at Pacific, often headlines. The evening cover varies depending on the band. Food is still served until 1 am along with plentiful pints of Guinness from the tap or your choice of a variety of single-malt drinks.
I’ve never had a problem walking in to Kells and getting a table on demand, but if you’re bringing a group, call in a reservation for weekend nights. Kells is deservedly a hot spot in Portland.
Kells is located at 112 SW Second Avenue, and it is easy accessible via MAX. More information can be found at the website.